A bit more of Historical Portugal (Part 1)

A Bit More of Historical Portugal (Part 1)

Well, it's been quite a few days since we've managed to post anything on the blog (due to lack of internet) - and even now the signal here is quite poor, so I think I'll have to put our on going adventure on in stages - so this is Part 1!


Tuesday 23rd February 2016

Today we decided to walk into the city of Evora - a distance of about one and a half miles from the campsite, and as it has been awarded World Heritage Status by UNESCO  in 1986 we thought there would be plenty there to keep us occupied.  Maybe we're philistines, but after wandering the streets for a couple of hours we both agreed we'd rather have the wide open country side or wild Atlantic coast any day.

That's not to say we didn't enjoy what we did do.  We visited the beautiful Roman-Gothic Cathedral - Se Cathedral Evora and marvelled at the arches and alters within it's walls, but the guide books had informed us that the best bits are supposed to be the roof which is reached via the bell tower and a narrow spiral 135 step staircase, and the cloisters - both of which were closed.

 

We were also interested to see the bone chapel - The Capela dos |Ossos which is housed within the Igreja de Sao Francisco Church Complex.  It is described as a fascinating chapel with a rather macabre secret - it is the final resting place of hundreds of bodies that were exhumed from the city's graveyards in the 16th century - apparently, at that time the graveyards of Evora became overcrowded so bones were exhumed to make way for new bodies to be buried.  Sadly, this attraction was closed as well, so finally we headed for the Diana Roman Temple with it's 12 crumbling columns!  This was open and free, but really, although it's noted as being the most famous tourist attraction in Evora there was nothing to do other than click a quick pic!






Anyway, by now we were feeling quite hungry so we decided to make tracks back to the campsite for a late lunch, however, on the way we got a bit distracted by a huge hypermarket.  We nipped in - and then nipped back out with a carrier bag containing 4 bottles of the good stuff - we've only sampled one so far and it was excellent, and all for the knock down price of about 3 euros!

Wednesday 24th February 2016

Not really much to report today.  We left our campsite at Evora and decided we would top up our supplies before heading out into the back of beyond again!  Once restocked we turned our wheels towards Marvao, and I thought ‘Oh, just another hill top Fortress’ ‘maybe not overly exciting’  -  How wrong can you be - but that will be tomorrow’s story!

  

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Our journey was to be about 80 miles, and although we’d set off in fine weather it soon deteriorated, and it wasn’t long before the wind and rain were slamming into the T4rdis with great abandon.  At one point we stopped in a lay-by for lunch but we could hardly hear ourselves think due to the noise of the rain rattling on our exterior, so we didn’t pause for long. Once we were fed and watered we were soon rolling up hill and down dale towards our destination, but the last part was very definitely up up and up until we landed on a terrace that provides the Aire for the town of Marvao.  To the side there was a Convent, and behind us were the fortifications of the castle, but the forward view was the best!  This was a wonderful panorama that spread out below us and which stretched for many miles - and we were quite lucky, because although it stayed very windy the cloud cleared, thus improving our viewing pleasure.  

However, we also had a spot of bad luck!  The Aire was on very uneven ground, so as the T4rdis landed it was on a dreadful ‘wonk’.  Never mind, we thought we'd easily be able to cure that  with our ramps - under the front wheels they went, and then John drove up onto them, and then…….SNAP…… one of them broke clean in half!  Therefore, on a ‘wonk’ we stayed! We almost needed a block and tackle to get into the kitchen end, and when we had dinner our meal was in grave danger of sliding off the table into the cab!  Oh well, at least we were able to sleep head up!

Thursday 25th February 2016

This morning we set off to explore the town, the fortifications and the castle - and what a wonderful surprise that was.  While we've been on our travels we've explored quite a few castles but this one was easily the best yet in relation to it’s preservation, it’s history and the views from the castle walls and buildings.  

We entered the town and started our tour by walking along the very narrow cobbled streets that were lined on one side by ancient cottages and on the other by the castle wall, but after we’d needed to breath in a couple of times to allow cars to pass we felt we should walk on the ‘pavement’  This required us to climb up onto a ledge that was about 4 feet above the road and about 2 feet wide - it  was protected on one side by the ramparts, but on the other - nothing. 

And this only got worse - or better - depending on your degree of vertigo!   The walkway soon led us to a very steep, rugged old stone stairway that would allow us to gain access to the castle entrance - you had a choice whether to take your life in your hands and proceed , or you could chicken out and take the easier road way - we only dithered for a few seconds before starting our climb.  

The views as we ascended were breathtaking - or was that the exercise - but we did find ourselves clinging quite closely to the wall as we went.  

After just over a 100 steps (some of which were missing) we came to the castle entrance and I got my purse out to pay the entrance fee - ‘oh no’ said a pleasant young man, ‘it’s free this month’.  That would never happen in England!  He then proceeded to supply us with an information leaflet, and to advise us on what we should see, before wishing us a very enjoyable visit.

The Cistern

We began our visit by descending down a dark  dark stairway that allowed us to enter  ‘The Cistern’ - apparently it's the largest within any Portuguese castle, and it's a structure that was built to gather rain water - and this one could hold enough for 6 months.  Once inside we found ourselves standing just above the water level in a gloomy tunnel that echoed every time we spoke.  It 's suggested that you sing your favourite song while down there but I was a bit worried - if I did maybe the rains would come back and we might drown!  Well, that didn’t happen, but I do think we spent too long down there because all of a sudden we were plunged into darkness when the lights timed out!

The Castle Plan

From there we proceeded to walk around the ramparts gazing at the fantastic views and vistas as they unfolded before us - apparently a famous author once wrote ‘From Marvao one can see the World’ - it certainly felt like it!

Following our exploration of the rest of the castle we eventually came to The Keep, and it was here that we were able to acquaint ourselves with the Castle’s 1000 year history - from it’s early origins at the end of the ninth century, and through it’s many battles and wars.  

It was also from here that we were able to access, via a spiral stone staircase, the highest point in the castle, from where you have 360 degree views as far as the eye could see.  Additionally, we were also treated to a fly by from a squadron of 9 or 10 Bonelli Eagles who were using  the thermals to gain height and then gliding back in front of the ramparts - they were huge and very beautiful!

Following our visit we walked back through the town where we found many more historic buildings along with a few eateries, but very little in the way of shops - we really didn’t seem to be able to spend our money today!  We walked back past the Convent and Church of Nossa Senhora da Estrela, past the Aire, and out onto the rocky outcrop which opened up a previously unseen vista of many boulders haphazardly strewn by nature on the immediate steep slopes below us.  We could also hear ringing - no not the church bells - this was coming from bells that were tied around the grazing goats necks!

Back at the T4rdis we had lunch and then debated what to do next - because of our extreme ‘wonk’ we’d already decided we would be moving on.  So, a short drive took us to Barragem de Povoa - another free Aire with views over a resevoir and from where there are several way marked long and short walks - so that will be the plan for tomorrow, the former or the later depending on the weather.

Friday 26th February 2016

Well, our plans for today were well and truly scuppered - by the torrential rain that poured from the skies for most of the day (and a good part of the previous night).  We quickly considered going out but decided there would be no pleasure in getting soaked, and drying all our wet gear would also have been a problem in an already steamy  T4rdis.  So instead, we had a duvet day!  We made thick gooey pancakes for breakfast, we read a bit, and then we had cheese on toast for lunch.  In the afternoon we watched a Star Trek film - Into Darkness, and then we had tea!  In the evening we sat and sipped a very pleasant glass of wine (or three),  and reminisced about our travels since we sold up and started our journey nearly 6 months ago. And then, because we were worn out, we pottered off to bed.

Saturday 27th 2016

This morning dawned bright and sunny, but quite cold - however, after our lazy day yesterday we were quite determined we would be going for a long walk!  So as usual, a picnic was packed and our flask was filled, and off we went planning to tackle most of the 8km path (16 there and back) that mostly hugs the side of the resevoir - but once again, our plan didn’t quite come to full fruition!

All started well as we left the Aire - we knew that parts of the trail would be on quiet roads and other sections on  tracks that closely followed the waters edge, so we were quite hopeful that we would be able to do a bit of bird spotting along the way.  And we hadn't been walking long when we heard the give away ‘clacking’ noise that strokes make with there beaks,  then low and behold, there were numerous storks in graceful flight, along with nests perched up on chimneys and high  in a huge eucalyptus tree.

At this stage we were approaching the dam wall, but just before we got there we came across this sculpture that represents the areas relationship to electricity.   From the notice board we learnt that the dam was mainly built to produce electrical power to supply several villages and small industries in the area and that this particular area was one of the first in Portugal to receive power in this way.

We crossed the dam and then dropped down onto a track beside the water, and it was here that we met a bit of a problem - following all the heavy rain the track was submerged!  However, we were not to be deterred and we thought we could circumnavigate the flooded bit by scrambling over some rocks and picking our way  through some  dense thicket, and then - we were a bit lost!  “I know” said John “let’s head back to the road”, so over some more rocks we went - and then we found ourselves in a rough field surrounded by a barbed wire fence but with the road just on the other side of it.  Oh well, there was nothing else for it - we couldn't climb over it cos it was to high, we couldn't climb through it cos the rows of wire were to close together, so we crawled under it - commando style!  I did ask John if he would repeat the performance so I could take a picture - but he declined!

Anyway, after that we went forwards and onwards and found several more flooded sections of track, but each time we managed to get around it by scrambling over rocky walls or beating our way through the undergrowth.  But sadly, in the end the flooding got the better of us, and we decided to be sensible and turn back.

We retraced out tracks and paused for lunch on the lake edge where we spotted herons in the distance as we munched our sandwiches, but by now, even though the sun was shining, it was cold in the wind.  So back to the lovely warm T4rdis we went for a welcome cuppa and to put our feet up.  

Click here to see our Portuguese camping spots