2019 Tour of Brittany (France) Part 19 Quiberon - an Aire near Redon

Wednesday 11th September 2019  ☁☁☁☁☁☁☁
Mileage 31 from Quiberon to just outside Vannes
Parking Co-ordinates 47.63323, -2.78011

After 3 free nights on the Quiberon Aire (which should have cost €22 but machine was broken) we headed back onto the main land and aimed T4rdis2 for an Aire just outside the city of Vannes.  Then after lunch we strolled along the 2.4 miles of bike and pedestrian path mostly beside the canalized River 'La Marle' into the city.

Vannes is another walled fortified town and it seems it mostly escaped serious damage during the war so many of it's narrow cobbled streets and half timbered buildings are originals.

We entered the town via the main gate - The Porte St Vincent Ferrier - which was named after a Spanish monk who died in the town in 1419 and who become it's patron saint and has his final resting place in the very Grand St-Pierre cathedral.

St Vincent peers down on all who enter the town

The cathedral itself was a magnificent Gothic structure who's construction lasted from the 15th to the 19th centuries, and if the building of the  older bell tower was to be included the total time for it's completion was seven centuries!  Inside it was equally beautiful with carvings, figurines, tapestries and intricate alter pieces, along with lots of religious treasures in the form of chalices and candlesticks!



From there we ventured up onto the ramparts and they gave us lovely views over the colourful manicured gardens that sprawl outside the towering walls, and which terminate at the old 16th century medieval launderette!  (wash houses)

The pic doesn't do the flowers justice - they were an absolute menagerie of colour!

The medieval wash house 

Next we popped up onto the Promenade de la Garenne where the war dead from both World Wars are commemorated and from there we were able to gaze back across much of the old town!

Then once we'd done all that we decided to start on our long walk home, and for that I suggested we should walk down the opposite side of the River Marle, and because John knew there was a bridge he agreed.

The hole on the left was for pedestrians and bikes only

Well, we got to said bridge but couldn't cross because a section of it was open to allow tall masted boats to pass but at that point we weren't worried because we thought that once they were through the bridge would close and we'd be able to get on our way.  However, after we'd waited for about 15 mins and the waterway was clear we started to get a bit concerned and at that point John looked for the bridge info on line.  Oh dear!!  It seemed it had opened at 4.30pm (just before we got there), and that it would remain open util 7.30 to make the best use of the incoming tide!  Therefore, at first we thought we'd have to retrace our steps (for at least a mile back up stream) but then John discovered a tunnel only a short distance away so rather than go 'over it' we went 'under it' and thus saved ourselves a bit of shoe leather!


Thursday 12th and Friday 13th September 2019  ⛅⛅⛅🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞
Mileage  from Vannes to Plage de Kerver near St Gildas
Parking Co-ordinates 47.52236, -2.8586

Before I tell you about today I just want to tell you about last night because we've had some very unwelcome visitors!!  Overall, while we've been on this tour in France we haven't really been bothered by bitey insects at all but that seemed to change when we moved into the Morbihan district.

For a few mornings recently John has been waking up with a new crop of red swellings which have obviouly been acquired from 🦟🦟🦟blood thirsty mosquitoes!  So last night, before we went to bed (at about 11.15) we searched the van thoroughly and thought we'd be safe in our slumbers - but it would seem we weren't quite though enough!  Once in bed John was soon pushing out some 😴💤😴, but for me sleep was more elusive!  I read for a while and then clock watched for an even longer while (1am, 2am), but finely sleep claimed me too, 😴💤😴 that was until 4.30 am when I heard that horrible whining zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz noise that was unmistakably a marauding blood sucking 🦟😱!  Of course I flapped my arms about and hid under the covers - and then all went quiet so I almost convinced myself that what I'd heard was just John snoring quietly, thus I settled down to sleep again, and I'd nearly dropped of when zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.  The little bugger was back and it must have buzzed me 4 or 5 times more until about 6am when all went quiet.  And did it get me?  Yep it sure did cos this morning I'd got 5 new bites! (apparently only the ladies bite but if they don't drink their fill on the first go they will keep coming back for more).   Hopefully we'll get rid of them before tonight but if not I'll be ready because I'm going to bed tonight well doused in Eau de insect repellent😂😂😂.

And if we thought that was the end of our insect encounters for today we were sadly mistaken!  Once fed and watered we moved further around the coast to an Aire that lies on the bottom part of the curve of the 'Golfe  du Morbihan' and that will be out home for today and tomorrow. 

Our intention for being there was to walk to Pointe du Grand Mont today and to go out cycling on Friday.

The way on towards Pointe du Grand Mont

So off we set with our flask in our bag and very quickly we were on the coastal path where we not only found more fantastic views but also huge swarms of flying ants and gnats!  Unfortunately they did dull our pleasure and made it almost impossible to talk to each other without getting extra protein rations!  We got nearly to the Pointe but then decided to call it a day and just sit and have our coffee, but a few seconds after sitting a huge black cloud descended and it wasn't of the rain kind!   The buzzing hoards found their way into our ears, eyes and hair and made it absolutely impossible to sit still, and I'm sure if we'd poured our drinks we'd have managed to drown a good many of them.  But looking on the bright side, I'm sure all the arm waving, dodging and scurrying out of their way burned lots of extra calories so extra chips can be had tonight!

On Friday we mounted our bikes and set of for a 28 miler to see more of the 'Little Sea' which is the nickname given to the vast mud rimmed tidal lagoon known as the Golfe de Morbihan that is only open to the Atlantic between where the land ends at Arzon and where it begins again at Locmariaquer.  However, in the end our ride took us more onto the Atlantic side of the peninsula because much of the Golfe side was inaccessible on our trusty steeds.

Our first stop was at St Jacques where shell fish collecting on the beaches seems to be a popular pass- time and they apparently they use very big nets for their catch!  However, I'm not so sure the locals appreciated our English humour because when John asked an elderly gentleman (in perfect French) 'est-ce pour le grand Papillions?' (is that for big butterflies) he didn't quite seem to get the joke!

From there we proceeded right to the very tip of the peninsula at Port Navalo where we picnicked, and then we visited the cosmopolitan and very touristy Port du Crouesty before heading home to sit in the sunshine with a very welcome glass of 🍷🍷😁!


Saturday 14th September 2019  🌞🌞🌞🌞🔥🌞🔥😎
Mileage 42 from St Gildas to an Rieux near Redon
Parking Co-ordinates 47.59997, -2.09101

Today we moved on again and in so doing we left the district of Morbihan behind and passed into the Loire-Atlantique region, specifically heading for the town or Redon.  However, we couldn't stay in Redon itself so we opted for an Aire right beside the peaceful River.

Cycling was once again the order of the day (24 miles) and our first target was the town of Redon itself to see the confluence of the Rivers Vilaine and Oust, the opening of the Ille-et-Rance Canal and the on-going Nantes Brest Canal.   These waterways form part of more than 400 miles of navigable rivers and canals that cross Brittany from the port of St Malo on one side to Brest in the West and Nantes in a southeast direction.

I suppose it has to be said that the point of convergence wasn't  overly interesting but while we were there we watched one or two boats navigating the town locks. 

Our ride continued along the quite banks of the Vilaine and when we got back to T4rdis2 the quiet tranquillity of the gently flowing waters was lovely to watch.  Additionally, as night fell the view from our window showed the river turn to a pink and red hued sparking mirror that reflected the trees on the opposite bank, and we could also see lots of bats dashing and fish jumping in search of their supper. 

And finally, I just want to let you know that today marks the end of our 4th year of full-time motor-homing, and one of our dearest wishes is that we've still got a few more to come!

Bye for now 😗😗

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